Guided Expedition of Denali (20,320’) via Upper West Rib route (AK Grade III, 13,000’ elevation, ~35 miles). Guided in collaboration with Denali concessionaire Alaska Mountaineering School of Talkeetna, AK.

 

Ratio: 2 clients, 1 guide
 

Prerequisites: Mountaineering experience at or above 14,000’ and Mountaineering Seminar or similar training/experience required.  Participants for this trip will often take CMS’s Mountaineering Seminar, or similar course to prepare for this climb. They will also need to have experience climbing above 14,000’ and a basic comprehension of glacier travel and Crevasse Rescue techniques. This route is no steeper or more technical than the more popular West Buttress Route, just more sustained (and less crowded!).

 

Denali, aka Mt. McKinley, is one of the world’s most famous mountains, and for good reason. Its traditional name means “The High One” in the native Athabaskan language, and with a vertical rise over the surrounding plateau of 18,000’, Denali is more prominent than even Mt. Everest. In an inhospitable region of Alaska’s interior, Denali is a magnificent massif of granite blanketed by five ancient rivers of ice for which it is their source. The first ascent of Denali took place in 1913, but the classic and moderate West Buttress route was not pioneered until 1951 by Bradford Washington. The more technical and still less crowded West Rib Route was not completed until 1959. Join us as we attempt to overcome the tremendous challenges posed by this giant mountain in hopes of earning the opportunity to stand for a short while on the highest point in North America. 

After arriving in Anchorage we travel to Talkeetna, a small, funky, historic town that comes alive with climbers every summer. After packing supplies, we board a ski plane in Talkeetna and take a stunning 30-minute flight before arriving at the Kahiltna Glacier on the flanks of the Alaska Range. A comfortable base camp is established here at 7,200’.

 

From base camp, our team will use a systematic, expeditionary approach to carrying loads high and sleeping low before finally moving to our next camp. This allows climbers to save energy and better acclimatize throughout the trip, improving chances of success. Intermediary camps will be established at 7,800’, 9,700’, 11,000’, 14,200’, and 16,300’. From our high camp, a summit attempt will be made at the first window of good weather. The descent is a rapid process, and climbers can look forward to a celebration in Anchorage typically within three days of our final summit attempt.

 

The overall length of the trip is ultimately determined by our progress, which is directly effected by the region’s unpredictable and often harsh storm cycles. Successful trips can finish in a mere 14 days, but even unsuccessful trips can take the full 21 days or more. Train hard and keep your fingers crossed for a clear summit day, and your dream of standing on top will be very attainable!

 

Participants should plan to fly in and out of Anchorage (ANC) on days one and twenty-three of the trip. We take a shuttle van to Talkeetna, make final preparations at AMS’s headquarters, and fly to our base camp on the Kahiltna via ski plane. Throughout the expedition, climbers sleep in solid four-season tents. Comfortable but basic accommodations are provided in Talkeetna. Talkeetna lodging, Anchorage shuttle service, and NPS registration fees are all included in the cost of the expedition.

 

Alaska’s proximity and hassle-free logistics mean you don’t need an abundance of time to reach world-class terrain. You just need physical and mental tenacity, and a well-developed sense of adventure – from there, we can match you to the right Alaska trip. With such spectacular mountains and expert guidance, it’ll be an experience you won’t forget. We invite you to join us up in Alaska!

 

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